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Stitch By Stitch: Assyrian Costumes Weave Centuries of Identity
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In a sunlit room in Erbil, 72-year-old Marina Shamuel threads golden patterns into deep blue fabric, repeating stitches her mother and grandmother taught her decades ago.

"Each dress tells a story," she says, her hands moving with the confidence of a lifetime. That story is woven into the Assyrian Tiari costume--an enduring emblem of heritage for the Tiari tribe of the Hakkari mountains in northern Iraq and southeastern Turkiye. More than traditional clothing, it is a visual record of identity, worn for centuries at weddings, religious festivals, and cultural gatherings.

Men's attire typically includes a wool cap or turban, sometimes topped with a feather once reserved for warriors and leaders, paired with a dark cotton or wool shirt, embroidered jacket, and loose trousers fastened with a wide belt. Women wear long, brightly embroidered dresses with headscarves, often in vivid colors that showcase meticulous craftsmanship.

"The feather is not decoration--it's a symbol of history and pride," Assyrian scholar Rudy al-Qasrani told Shafaq News, noting its origins from wild birds like eagles or peacocks. While once a mark of bravery and rank, it now serves as a unifying symbol for all Assyrians.

Younger generations are also reclaiming the tradition. "Every stitch carries a memory and a hope," says Erbil craftswoman Jacqueline Mansour. Sandra Shamoun, from Shaqlawa, says wearing the costume makes her "feel connected to the authenticity of our ancestors."

In Duhok, shop owner Polos Johnson says young Assyrians abroad are buying the garments to reconnect with their roots. Heritage advocate Sarah al-Ashouri notes the challenge of passing on the tradition in a digital age but believes awareness is growing.

Researcher Sarkon Jamal says the costume's endurance speaks for itself. "This clothing teaches respect for history and strengthens bonds between generations. Every stitch and feather revives the Assyrian spirit."



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