Many types of melons abound in our markets at this time of year. Although cantaloupe, honeydew and watermelon dominate the melon scene, I like casaba melons, which are more difficult to find. The casaba melon, with its slightly cucumber taste, is milder and juicer than a cantaloupe. However, there is nothing as refreshing as a big, juicy slice of watermelon.

All species of melon originated somewhere in the Middle East, mainly Persia. Early paintings in ancient Assyria depict festive tables with slices of melons. Historians say that King Merodach-Baladan of Assyria grew melons in his garden in 2100 B.C. At the time, melons were also used for medicinal purposes.

Egyptian paintings dating back to 2400 B.C. included melons. Some food historians claim that the paintings depict cucumbers, not melons. However, a passage from the Bible (Numbers 11:5) mentions both foods, when the Hebrews wandering in the desert lament "the fish, which we did eat in Egypt freely, (also) the cucumbers, and the melons."

By the third century B.C., the Greeks were raising melons. In the first century A.D., the Roman scholar Pliny (A.D. 23-79) described a plant called "melopepo" grown in Naples. He told of the plant's fruit not being suspended from the vine, as are cucumbers, but resting on the ground. Pliny further described this fruit as being round and yellow and when ripe detaching itself from the stem -- a characteristic of melons.

Wall paintings in Herculaneum and Pompeii show melons cut in half and portraying their interiors. In general, the Romans preferred to import melons from Armenia. Melons at that time were only about the size of oranges today.

Archeological digs in China have found melon seeds dating to about 200 B. C. In 1973, the body of a Chinese noblewoman was exhumed in Hunan province. She was perfectly preserved, having been buried 60 feet deep in a nested series of six airtight coffins. As she was so perfectly preserved, it was possible to do an autopsy. Melon seeds were found in her stomach and intestines.

Marco Polo on his journey to China reported encountering melons in Afghanistan. There, the melons were cut into slices and dried in the sun. The dried melons became very sweet and chewy, similar to jerky. Melons are still grown in Afghanistan, as well as in northern Pakistan and Kashmir.

With the collapse of the Roman Empire, the flow of melons from the Middle East to Italy ceased and the fruit disappeared from Europe. Historians report that it returned to Italy in the 14th century, still in the orange-sized version. It was not long before cultivators developed more generous sizes.

Historical records show that Charlemagne ordered melons grown in his domain about 800 A.D., although they did not fare well in Charlemagne's garden, thanks to adverse climate. Historians speculate that he must have encountered melons in Spain, where his armies campaigned. The Spanish province of Andalusia was the first European area to grow melons, probably planted there by the Moors when they conquered the area in the early 700s.

The successful introduction of melons to France is attributed to the popes, when they abandoned Rome for Avignon early in the 14th century. Also, French soldiers returning from Italy probably brought back melon seeds. Today, some of the world's best melons are grown in southern France.

In northern France, melons were grown in hothouses for the nobility. Seven varieties of melons were grown under glass for Louis XIV at Versailles. The gardeners watered the melons with honeyed or sweetened water to sweeten the fruit, or so they thought.

Later, in the 16th century, the popes and melons were associated for another reason. At the time, melon seeds brought from Armenia were planted in the papal domain of Cantalupo, near Tivoli -- hence the origin of the name "cantaloupe."

In America, Coronado's men, who were exploring the Southwest, informed him that the area was rich in corn, beans and melons. The report was wrong, as there were no melons in the New World until Europeans brought them here. Probably what they thought were melons were really squashes.

The Navahos began growing melons in the middle 1800s from seeds brought by the Spanish. The first official record of an imported melon was the Netted Gem variety, imported from France in 1881. This started commercial melon cultivation in the United States. The Netted Gem was followed by the casaba, and in 1900 by the French White Antibes winter melon, which became known as the honeydew.

Melons should not be picked before they are completely ripe. Today, many are picked to finish their ripening on the way to the stores. Some fruits will continue to manufacture sugar after picking if placed in the sun, but not melons. Their sugar content begins to decrease as soon as they are picked. They may soften in a warm environment, but they will not ripen.

When the sugar content of a melon reaches its optimum, a separation layer develops in the stem at the point where it joins the fruit. This acts like a shield that prevents further nutrients from entering the melon. At this point, the melon can be picked from the vine with the slightest pressure or the melon will automatically fall to the ground. A melon thus harvested will show no scar where the stem breaks. However, one that does have damage is a sign that the melon was unripe when picked. I also have found that I can tell if a melon is ripe when the end of the melon away from the stem feels slightly soft or when the end near the stem is indented.

A ripe melon is sometimes hard to find. As the French poet Claude Mermet wrote in 1600. "Melons are like friends. Fifty have to be tried to find a single good one." The English, not to be outdone, translated Mermet's saying: "Friends are like melons. Shall I tell you why? To find one good, you must a hundred try."

On these hot days, one of my favorite cold soups is based on melons. Either cantaloupe or honeydew may be used, or a mixture of both. Fresh ginger adds a spiciness to this soup.