All Things Assyrian
The Pearls of Southeastern Anatolia
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Mardin, Turkey -- Perched on the slope of a hill looking south toward the Mesopotamian plains, Mardin is located on the rail and highway routes connecting Turkey to Syria and Iraq. From the city center, it takes 40 minutes to reach the Syrian border.

Home to Hittites, Surs, Babylonians, Persians, Romans, Arabs and Seljuks over thousands of years of history, this small and charming southeastern city has gone by many names, including Erdobe, Tidu, Merdin, Merdo, Merdi, Merda, Merde, "Eagle's Nest," "Birds' Nest" and Maridin. Mardin was given its current name after the area was occupied by the Turks.

In many sources, the city is referred to as "Merdin," which means fortresses, and indeed there are many fortresses in the area, situated so as to be able to watch each other for defensive purposes. The standing fortresses in the area include that of Mardin itself; Kalat'ül Mara in Eskikale Village; Arur to the northeast of Deyrulzafaran Monastery; and Erdemeşt.

There is no definitive information available about the establishment of the city. According to the results of excavations conducted by German archaeologist Baron Marvan Oppenheim in 1911-12, the Subarid lived in Mesopotamia around 4,500 to 3,500 BC. This finding is based on tiles discovered amongst layers that belong to the Sumerians and Babylonians.

Today, the city's architecture, its vast diversity of places of worship and its historic findings are among the must-see things for visitors to Mardin. Its culture bears the imprint of various ancient civilizations that flourished in the area. If mobilized and managed properly, Mardin's enormous historical, cultural and architectural richness has the potential to contribute much to the development of the province and to national tourism.

Mardin enjoys a privileged status in that it is able to make people experience the past and presents what is ancient and valuable to present generations. The city's cultural diversity is further enriched by the deep-rooted cultures of its various communities, including the oldest Christian community, the Suryani. In a great example of tolerance, the call to prayer, or ezan, from the mosques mingles in brotherhood with church bells.

In recent years, Mardin has become a center of attraction for many people from different parts of the world. It is a candidate for UNESCO's list of "Cities of World Heritage." Submitting, protecting and transferring cultural richness to the next generations is a matter of great importance. In this city and its provinces, 665 buildings are registered with the protection of culture and natural values committee directorate.

Visitors come across all sorts of historical buildings while walking through the narrow streets of Mardin. The 600-year-old Kırklar Church and 13th century Latifiye Mosque are among the highlights in the city. Other sites to see include Mardin Castle; the Maiden's Castle; Erdemeşt Fortress; Arur Fortress; Dara Fortress and ruins; Rabbat Fortress; Aznavur Fortress; Nusaybin Gırnavaz ruins (Çağlar Village); Telbısım ruins; Ramanus ruins; Kefernut ruins; more than 20 mosques; and numerous fountains, inns, baths and spas.

The most important sanctuary representing the Syriacs in Mardin is Deyrulzafaran Monastery. Situated on a small hill four to five kilometers from the city, it takes its name from saffron flowers and most certainly deserves to be called "the pearl of Mardin" for its magnificent and fascinating appearance. Descendants of ancient Mesopotamian communities dating back 5,000 years, the Syriacs converted to Christianity and maintained their lives in a somewhat introverted way in different parts of the world, protecting their own religious and cultural values. The monastery is still used today as a Syriac temple and school.

The Mor Gabriel Deyrulumur Monastery, 23 kilometers southeast of the town of Midyat, is known as the third biggest monastery in the world.

Visitors to Mardin may also want to consider buying silver filigree jewelry as a souvenir. Its artisans' traditional "telkari" (hand-made silver filigree) cannot be compared with the cheap Thai silver filigree increasingly penetrating Turkey's jewelry market.

There is generally no vegetation on the mountains around Mardin because a large number of them consist of calcareous areas with cracks and splits that absorb the surface water, which rises up on the plateaus. The Gümüş, Çağçağ and Savur streams pass through the city, while the Seyhan and Yeşilli Gülzar streams give life to the surrounding area, as do parts of the Dicle and Fırat rivers. Mardin, its provinces and neighboring cities all differ in their rates of wind, rainfall and moisture.

How to get there

Minibuses from Şanlıurfa drive visitors to Mardin in about 2.5 hours. There are also flights to Mardin and Şanlıurfa from large cities. The nearest city for train connections is Gaziantep, which is an access point to western and northern Turkey. Mardin is connected to the surrounding region with well-paved highways.

DİYARBAKIR

Diyarbakır, the largest city in southeastern Anatolia, is one of the must-see places in Turkey. Situated on the banks of the legendary Tigris River, it boasts one of the largest wall structures in the world.

It takes at least three days to tour around Diyarbakır, which has been home to some 33 civilizations throughout its history and is surrounded by an intact set of high city walls built of basalt. Though it is not known exactly when the walls were first constructed, they were restored and extended by Roman Emperor Constantine II in 349 A.D.

In Sur hamlet, which is described as the "old Diyarbakır," people can visit: the 15th century Sheikh Matar Mosque, several churches and a 16th century synagogue, an Ottoman-era public bath and Yenikapı Street, where the sounds of church bells and Muslim calls to prayer, or ezan, blend into one another.

One of Diyarbakır's major sights is the Great Mosque (Ulucami). The first mosque built in Asia Minor and the fifth holiest temple in the Islamic world, it reflects the characteristics of many periods and civilizations.

For the last 400 years, the structure has been used as a mosque, but it was known as the Mar Toma Cathedral, which belonged to the Assyrian period, before the city was conquered by Islamic armies. At the back of the mosque, the Zinciriye Madrassa, dating back to the 12th century, is used as a shelter for the poor. Do not forget to stop by the Hasan Paşa Inn.

After going through the old Yogurt Bazaar, it is possible to see the famous Four-Footed Minaret (Dört Ayaklı Minare). The Chaldean Church nearby is one of two Christian sanctuaries that are still in use today.

Visitors to Diyarbakır can also see the Prophet Solomon-Nasiriye Mosque, the Mesudiye Madrassa -- one of the first schools of medicine in Anatolia -- as well as churches, mansions and historical streets. The city is also home to the house of the prominent poet Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı.

The village of Çayönü, near the town of Ergani, 60 kilometers from Diyarbakır, carries traces of the Neolithic Age, during which the development of human technology began. The approximately 10,000-year-old settlement sheds light not only on the history of the region, but also on the history of world civilization. The Hilar caves near Ergani are also well worth a visit.

In the Atatürk Mansion, visitors can see some of the personal items belonging to the founder of the Republic of Turkey. Bought by the Diyarbakır municipality in 1937, the mansion was given as a gift to the country's great leader.

A city of rich culinary and musical traditions, Diyarbakır's history spans from its time as a Syriac Christian stronghold through the Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman empires, with all their relics dotting the landscape.

The 20th century was among the more chaotic eras in Diyarbakır's long history, from troubles during World War I to issues with the outlawed Kurdish Workers' Party, or PKK, in recent decades that have kept the city from receiving the number of tourists that visitors and local leaders believe its landmarks deserve. But a newly established tourism association, founded by a 40-person team with the support of the governorship, aims to introduce Diyarbakır to both local and international tourists and reveal its history and culture.

How to get there

Airline companies offer daily flights to Diyarbakır from Ankara and Istanbul. There are also trains traveling from those two cities. If traveling by bus one should be aware that there may be several ID checks by the Gendarmerie.

www.hurriyetdailynews.com



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