DETROIT -- Shoppers push carts along spotless cream-colored ceramic tile floors, pass well-stocked aisles of fragrant bananas, apples and exotic fruit. Digital signs hanging from the ceiling announce sales and product information. Workers fill coolers with freshly cut meat under the soft light of glass chandeliers.

The Farmer John Food Center looks like it belongs in one of Detroit's tony suburbs, but it's planted in one of the city's poorer neighborhoods, at Gratiot and Harper. Owner Sam Sattam just wrapped up a $1 million renovation that he hopes will change the negative image many Detroiters and others have of the city's neighborhood grocery stores.

"I am part of the city, and the city is part of me," said Sattam, explaining why he renovated the 24,000-square-foot former Farmer Jack store he bought five years ago. "I believe in giving back to the community. They're not customers anymore; they're friends."

To combat nagging negative images, Sattam has joined other independent grocers, wholesalers and the Chaldean American Chamber of Commerce in the launch of "Guaranteed Fresh," a campaign that touts neighborhood stores and emphasizes their owners' efforts to offer fresh, healthy food choices, competitive prices and a clean shopping environment. Grocers have poured millions of dollars into their stores in recent months to improve the shopping experience.

The campaign could change outdated perceptions of Detroit's independent grocers, said David Livingston, a grocery analyst from Pewaukee, Wis.

"It's a good idea because customers don't realize the improvements (store owners) have made over the years," he said. "A new generation of Chaldeans has taken over. Many are well-versed in English, they're college educated, they've had years of experience, and they take this very seriously." Understanding customers

Independent Chaldean grocers have been city fixtures for decades and understand what customers want and need, said Martin Manna, president of the Chaldean American Chamber of Commerce. Of the 85 independent grocers in Detroit, 80 are owned by Chaldeans, a group of Christians from Iraq.

He conceded there are some Chaldean-owned grocery stores in the city that are not well-kept, but they are the exception.

"We do have some bad stores, and it's in our best interest to get rid of them," he said. "There is a mindset that there are only bad stores, and we want to change that perception."

As part of the campaign, the grocers and chamber want to inform development agencies about their store improvements and their contributions to the community. They're also looking for loans or grants to help others make improvements.

"I'm not trying to make this a Chaldean issue," Manna said. "We don't want special treatment (but) our folks have been investing and reinvesting in Detroit for over 70 years, and it's a challenge to get any assistance."

But with the city's population declining and credit hard to get, some owners question whether it's worth remortgaging their homes to pay for renovations, said Mike Dikhow, president of Liberty Wholesale in Warren and program co-chair. In other cases, owners are hesitant to spend money because they have no family to take over the stores.

"They're just waiting it out to see what happens," he said.

If Alaa Naim had the money, he would make major improvements to Thrifty Scot on Harper at Conner Avenue. He changed the tile three years ago and painted the exterior last year, but he knows the business could use more work.

"All I'm doing is patching," said Naim, who has owned the store for 30 years. "What I'd like to do, I can't do it. I would gladly remodel my store if I can find someone to help me." 'Stores are clean, safe'

The ones who do have money are pouring millions of dollars into renovations.

Sam Garmo and Jimmy Marrogy added 6,000 square feet and upgraded the Pick & Save Supermarket on Seven Mile and Van Dyke five years ago to the tune of $1.4 million. It pains Marrogy to hear people say Detroit grocery stores are insufficient.

"We take that personally," he said. "That puts our livelihoods on the line."

Two years ago, Rick Farida razed the 14,000-square-foot store his family has owned in northwest Detroit since 1977 and built a $2 million, 27,500-square-foot supermarket. He doubled the amount and selection of food offerings at Greenfield Market to include organics, more dairy products and more meat.

"It's important to make customers aware that the stores are clean, safe and have a good selection," he said, adding that he hopes the campaign will highlight the improvements and get more shoppers in their stores. "I want customers to see what's in their neighborhood."

Before Sattam made improvements to the Farmer John Food Center, Teresa McCormick, 60, a retired nurse who has lived in the neighborhood for 37 years, would drive to Grosse Pointe to shop. She now shops in her neighborhood and finds that she is saving money and is happy with the food choices.

"This store is beautiful, inside and out," she said. "It's a blessing to the neighborhood."

Jennifer Youssef
The Detroit News