Wars have been fought, won and lost over spices.

They've played a fundamental role in religious practice, colonization and the development of trade routes. In fact, Central and South America might not have been discovered as quickly if explorers like Christopher Columbus weren't looking for a better way to get to lucrative spice markets in the Far East.

However, long before Columbus sailed the ocean blue in 1492, the Assyrians, who lived in Mesopotamia in 3,000 B.C., found use for spices. They incorporated the sesame seed into the heart of their creation story. The Assyrians believed that the gods drank sesame wine the evening before they created Earth, according to www.spiceadvice.com. Spices continued to play an important role in Mesopotamian culture as the Egyptians rose to power. Hieroglyphs in the Great Pyramid at Giza show people eating garlic and onions for strength, according to www.spicadvice.com.

Spices continued to increase in importance in ancient Greek and Rome. In 400 B.C. Hippocrates, the Greek physician, listed more than 400 medicines made with spices and herbs, about half of which are used today, according to www.spiceadvice.com. As spices became more commonplace, "the Golden Road of Samarkand" developed. It stretched across southern Asia and the Middle East.

With the growth of the middle class during the European Renaissance, the popularity of spices rose. For almost 200 years, Spain, Portugal, England and Holland warred for control of the Indonesian Spice Islands. (Known today as the Maluku Islands.)

The need for and use of spices has not diminished in the 21st century, although people are less inclined to go into battle to ensure the market share of their favorite spice. Now, spices have become part of everyday living. People use them in dishes like curry, barbecue and as rubs for pork. They add pizzazz to a mundane meal and create new accents and stimulation for the palate.

Paul Murphy, the chef and owner of Tiki Taco and Grill in Pharr, uses a lot of cayenne pepper in his Mexican cooking.

"I call it my secret ingredient," he said. "Many people use paprika in their cooking but it's just like putting the lipstick on a girl. It just gives it a better look." Cayenne gives flavor to that look.

Murphy believes spices should accent the food, but should not be recognizable.

"People should taste the flavor, but shouldn't be able to put their finger on the exact spice," Murphy said. "They should say this has a kick to it because of the cayenne pepper."

Marcel Fortuin, owner of Bistro M in McAllen, has been using spices to perk up a traditional French dish.

The original recipe calls for the use of oregano, rosemary and thyme, Fortuin said. By adding caraway seeds and lavender, the recipe has a fresher taste.

"It's a real old combination, revamped by adding to more herbs to it," Fortuin said. "It's great with pork."

Other common uses of spices include curries and Jamaican jerk, Fortuin said.

"They are always going to be popular," Fortuin said.

Many of the recipes for those two mixtures of spices are passed down through generations, and the exact combination of spices remain secret. On average, curry is a combination of between 10 and 20 spices, Fortuin said.

While some spices and dishes will probably remain popular for generations to come, some spice combinations flow in and out of popularity. Currently there is a huge Asian fad, which may explain the increase in the use of wasabi. There also is a trend of blending Latin American dishes with Asian cuisine.

"It very popular with the younger crowd," Fortuin said.

Both of these fads create an increase in Oriental spices, which is something McCormick, a seller of spices has picked up. In their flavor pairings for 2007 they have incorporated many aspects of Latin American and Asian Cuisine.

"As in previous years, cuisines from around the world continue to drive our exploration of new foods and flavors. The tastes of North Africa, Asia and the Middle East, in particular, are turning up in restaurants, at grocery stores, on TV cooking shows, and in magazines," the McCormick company states in a news release.

The company recommends the combination of clove and green apple, which it says is crisp, refreshing and warm. "The floral, sour notes of green apple are balanced by a hint of sweetness." This creates a nice accent to light flavors and foods. McCormick recommends the combination in fennel slaw, panzanella, salsas, and chutneys, or jicama and cucumbers. It can also be used to complement main dishes such as fish, pork, and poultry.

Thyme and tangerine are also a popular pairing this year according to McCormick. The pair creates a sweet and savory sensation in one's mouth.

"Thyme's minty notes are a perfect match for the fruity, sweet, and slightly sour, tangerine. This pairing is an ideal complement to the vibrant dishes of the Caribbean, Mediterranean and Middle East," according to the McCormick news release. A light glaze made from the two ingredients adds island flair to grilled chicken and it "brightens the flavor" of salmon or shrimp.

The pairings of spices appear almost endless and although some are classic and others avante garde, they are useless unless you like them. The only way to know if you like a particular spice is to try it.

"Start slow," Fortuin said. "Don't over do it in the beginning, so you can learn how each spice reacts to your palate."

By Paige Lauren Deiner
www.themonitor.com